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Avant Gardening with Sturtz & Copeland

Gardening ideas for Boulder, Colorado

Archive for the ‘Vegetables’ Category

Treating Powdery Mildew the Organic Way

Saturday, August 21st, 2010

saferThe bad news is its Powdery Mildew Season,  the good news is there is a good organic treatment for it called Safer Garden Fungicide..  Safer helps to prevent it from spreading.  Powdery Mildew is a fungus that is spread by wind, water and by us working amongst the plants.  It is mostly on the tops of the leaves and is white and powdery.   You will find it most years on squash, cucumbers, lilacs, roses and more.

The best thing you can do in future years is to anticipate mildew season early and start spring Safer ahead of time.  The sulfur in the product changes the ph of the leaf and prevents mildew from growing.

Got Beans?

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

bean-plantInstead of planting the same old green beans, try some beans in Technicolor.  There are beans in white, red, purple, yellow and mottled pods.  Plant a variety!  Nothing looks cooler then a yellow bean plant next to a red bean plant next to a purple next to a white.  After you pick and clean them, steam them very briefly, cut them diagonally, toss them with perhaps some onions and oregano, and apply a vinaigrette dressing.  Bon Apetit!

$5 Coupon Valid through 5/31/2010

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

herb-couponcoupon-aprilOur bedding plant greenhouses and  store is in bloom with a beautiful selection of annuals, perennials, green plants, and cut flowers!  Print this coupon and bring it in by May 31st, 2010 to receive $5.00 off any $100 purchase of bedding plants, cut flowers, or indoor house plants.

Starting Seeds

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

packet-for-front_roMost seeds can be direct-sown into the garden when the time is right.  But many folks like to get a jump on the season by growing vegetable starts.  These are usually warm weather plants - tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, melons, cucumbers, etc.  While you can grow them in a container with drainage - i.e. a Dixie cup with a whole hole in the bottom - most folks use seed trays and cell packs.

There are two trays, one with performations in the bottom and one without - you’ll want one of each.  Cell packs are sheets of small cells that nestle snugly inside the seed trays.  You’ll want one sheet of cells for each tray you intend to plant.

Clear plastic covers are also a good idea.  You’ll need at least one, which can be rotated to other trays as the seedlings sprout.

For most seeds you don’t need starting mix - any good quality potting soil will work as well.

Put your unperforated tray on the bottom, insert the performated tray into it, followed by the cell pack.  Dump an appropriate amount of  potting soil into the center of the cell packs and spread it equally into the cells.  Use your thumb to lightly tamp down the soil in each cell.

Put two seeds in each cell, cover with additional potting soil (1/4″  for tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, 1/2 inch for melons and cucumbers) and firm the soil lightly.

Lift the perforated tray and cell pack together out of the bottom tray.  Fill that tray with an inch of warm water and float the perforated tray with the cell pack on it.  Watering from the bottom up will give you even watering and minimize seed displacement, something that can happen when you top-water.

When the cells are dark and evenly moist, put the perforated tray with the cell pack over the sink to drain, dump the excess water out of the bottom tray and then place them back in the bottom tray.  Snap on the plastic cover.

Put the assembled trays in a sunny, warm spot during the day and the warmest place possible at night.  Most warm-weather seeds germinate best from 70 to 85 degrees, going slightly cooler once they develop leaves.  If you’re growing different kinds of seeds in one flat, try to keep the estimated germination times as close as possible.

Seedling heat mats can be pricey, but are a good long-term investment, espeically for tomato and pepper starts.  Another good, warm place to put your trays at night is on top of the your refrigerator, toward the back.  Since the tray is higher in the room it will stay warmer and get additional warmth from the coils releasing heat in the back of fridge.

Once you’ve achieved 50% germination, take the plastic cover off for good.  Keep the first seed to germinate in each cell and pluck out the other.

If your seedlings are tall and pale they aren’t getting enough light.  Use a flourescent light to boost light levels and length of day (see below).

If they rot at the base - called “damping off” - they’re too wet and too cold.  Toss the contents, sterilize your fresh potting soil by putting it into a 250-degree oven for an hour and start again.

Seedlings that seem spindly can be toughened up by putting them in the path of an oscilliating table fan set on low.  The movement of the air will make them more robust, but also more likely to dry out.

Keep the cell packs evenly moist.  With the cover on, they won’t need much water.

You can use fluorescent light to start your seeds or extend the length of the growing day.  If hung by a fine chain, they can be precisely raised and kept 2″ to 4″ above your seedlings.  You don’t have to use more expensive daylight spectrum bulbs.  For most purposes a regular white bulb works just fine.  Sow your seeds 6 to 8 weeks before you intend to plant them.  which in our case will be around Memorial Day.

Frankenfoods

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

1583290For all the uproar about Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs), it’s probably time to sort things out.  Since agriculture is at least 4,000 years old,  it’s safe to say that we have been tampering with the genetics of our plants and animals for a long time.  We’ve selected strains of plants that matured earlier, tasted better and lasted longer through selective breeding — that is, we saved the seeds from the plants that performed better and planted more of them every year.

Was this a form of genetic modification?  Absolutely.  But it enables us to live better lives and feed more people.   We tampered with but didn’t break the rules that were millions of years old.  With the advent of modern science we were able to break those rules and inject genes from different species into one another.  We were able to inject fish genes into tomatoes and strawberries.   We could make corn and wheat herbicide tolerant.   But what happens when those genes are set loose in the environment or in our stomachs?  The honest answer is … we don’t yet know.

So keep in mind that there is good genetic modification and , well, let’s just call it questionable genetic modification.  In the first case we know it’s good and what we’re getting.  The jury is still out on the latter.

Guide to Avant Gardening: Part 13 ~ Plant Cold Tolerant Seeds

Monday, March 1st, 2010

csps-summerflat1Knowing that gardening is always an iffy proposition, understand that some seeds can tolerate frost and grow in the cold–and take a gamble by planting them early in spring or even the fall before.  Chard, spinach, kale, broccoli, fava beans and peas can all be direct-sown in March.  It it’s cold they’ll wait to germinate, if it warms up you’ve got a great jump on the growing season.  Broccoli and fava beans can be sown a little deeper than usual to protect them from a late cold snap.

Winter Veggies

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

Once a good hard frost has nuked your cukes, it’s time to get out there and clean house.  There’s no greather pleasure than to walk out in spring and find a well-fertilized, perfectly raked and shaped bed in which to plant.

So now’s the time to rip out all the dead vegetation, add manure and compost, till,rake smooth and await the spring.  Wtih cold frames and row cover you can extend your current season and get a jump on your next.

It’s always a good idea to sow some spinach, chard, kale, peas and even brococoli in the fall and cover them with row cover or a light mulch of straw.  They’ll come up in their own sweet time, often much earlier than you’d expect.  A good resource is Elliot Coleman’s The Four-Season Garden.  Even he’s reduced to blanching endive in late winter, but there are a lot of good tips on extending your growing season.

Watering Stress

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

Watering stress cuts both ways when growing plants. Too much water and they yellow and die. Too little and they shrivel and brown. But letting them get a little stressed can have benefits. Letting the plants go a little limp drives their root systems in search of water, resulting in a stronger plant. If you let your carrots go a little flat they’ll send their taproots deeper, resulting in longer, straighter carrots. One thing to keep in mind is that when you set out your seedlings is that their roots have been literally running around in circles in the inside of the pot. Teasing the roots out a bit will get them going out into the larger garden faster. On the down side, plants like cauliflower and broccoli tend to develop aphids when not given enough water.

Guide to Avant Gardening: Part 9 ~ Warm-Weather Vegetables

Monday, May 18th, 2009

Snap Beans: 60-80 days. Planted 8″ apart in warm soil in late May. There are two varieties: pole beans and bush beans. Pole beans are vines which can reach to 6′ or more, but need netting or a trellis to support them. They begin producing a little later but can bear pods for up to 2 months. Bush beans are freestanding and earlier but produce only for 2-3 weeks. Solve this problem by planting more than once. Most people harvest their beans too late-pick them when they are the diameter of a pencil or less. In full swing they can be picked every three days. They come in many colors.
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Tomato Tips

Friday, May 15th, 2009

tomatoesThese  tips are also great for peppers and eggplants.

Plant when the weather warms up the soil: usually the last two weeks in May.

Remove the bottom sets of leaves and plant tomatoes deeper. This increases the root mass and means more tomatoes.

Harden off your seedlings by exposing them to increasing amounts of sunlight before planting. A few hours in the shade the frist day, then increase their exposure. Plant them on a cloudy day or in the evening.

For each plant, dig a hole at least 12″ in diameter and 10″ deep. Even bigger is better. Backfill with a misture of 50% top soil, 40% compost, 10% manure.

Pinch off the first few sets of blossoms to encourage better rooting, growth, and, ultimately, yields.

Fertilize every two weeks with a relatively low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous fertilizer. Water with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/1 gallon water every two weeks. Liquid iron and Super Thrive are also good ideas.

The more often you pick, the better your plants will yield.

Always water at the base of your plants in the morning. Soaking the entire plant increases potential for disease later on.

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