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Avant Gardening with Sturtz & Copeland

Gardening ideas for Boulder, Colorado

Archive for the ‘Gardening’ Category

Treating Powdery Mildew the Organic Way

Saturday, August 21st, 2010

saferThe bad news is its Powdery Mildew Season,  the good news is there is a good organic treatment for it called Safer Garden Fungicide..  Safer helps to prevent it from spreading.  Powdery Mildew is a fungus that is spread by wind, water and by us working amongst the plants.  It is mostly on the tops of the leaves and is white and powdery.   You will find it most years on squash, cucumbers, lilacs, roses and more.

The best thing you can do in future years is to anticipate mildew season early and start spring Safer ahead of time.  The sulfur in the product changes the ph of the leaf and prevents mildew from growing.

Treating Beetles in the Garden

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

earwigs3 blister-beetles1spotted-cucWe’re seeing lots of bugs this year and especially over populations of earwigs on everything, blister beetles (gray elongated body) on clematis especially and spotted cucumber beetle on squash blooms.To treat Earwigs and Blister Beetles we have a selection of products to choose from containing spinosad (organic) in it.  Rotenone Dust (organic) also works well on Blister Beetle, but it is hard to find and should be used with caution and a mask should be worn when applying it.

Spotted Cucumber Beetle likes to gather in and feed on blossoms of squash and cucumber, so you can use the blossoms as a trap and collect them or use a spray with pyrethrin in it.

Sledding Heavy

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

A child’s plastic sled is a great way to tow seedlings, tools and fertilizers around your garden.  They’re also a great low-tech  way to haul bags of soi9l amendments and, when production begins, to tow your harvest.

Meshing With Vines!

Monday, July 12th, 2010

Black nylon mesh or netting, used to protect plants from birds, makes a great support system for vines, especially annual ones.  When hanging the netting, don’t hang it from discrete points like screws or nails.  Instead, staple it in position and then go back along the top edge with a 1×2 and screw it to the wall, pinching the entire top edge of the netting between the 1×2 and the wall.  With the weight distributed, you won’t have to worry about the vine coming down.  The great thing is that once the vine leafs out you won’t really see the netting.  Another way to use it is to create a cylinder of netting around a growing vine.  A lot of vines don’t like to be tied off, but the cylinder lets the vine grow up it while a t the same time containing it.  When the vine dies back or needs pruning, take out your scissors and remove the unwanted growth in one fell swoop.

Rooting for Roots!

Thursday, July 8th, 2010

pumpkinGrowers of giant pumpkins increase their foot mass by letting the vines grow out., then stripping the leaves off the first three or four feet nearest the base.  They bury the exposed vine and create a second root system.  Thus invigorated, the plants produce enormous fruits.  The current record holder weighed in at 2020 punds.  The same will work for tomatoes.  And what else?  You tell us!

Nonstandard Standards!

Monday, July 5th, 2010

trumpetvineHave you ever heard the gardening phrase “trained to standard”?  This is a method by which you convert a woody vine into a small tree.  Over the course of a few years simply eliminate all the side shoots, retaining a single shoot supported with a pole.  When the shoot hits the right height — say seven or eight feet — allow the vine to branch out.   Pinch the tip of the original shoot to promote lateral shoot growth.  This  summer, check out the alley behind the Ares Thrift Store on Spruce Street in Boulder.  Across the alley there are two trumpet vines that look like trees.  In flower they’re phenomenal!

Rain is Your Parade!

Friday, July 2nd, 2010

The best time to weed is after a good rain.  They pop right out!  The best time to fertilize with granular fertilizer is right before one.  The best water to use is rainwater, which when it falls has nitrogen in it.  That’s why a good rain will green up your lawn faster than watering.  If you live in a dry area, plant in furrows rather than raised beds, to catch the rain and facilitate irrigation.  Tap water left standing out overnight will lose its chlorine, which is better for your plants.

Hose Hassles?

Friday, June 18th, 2010

Use stakes at the corners of your garden beds as hose guides so you can drag your hose through the garden with ease.  Drive a sturdy stake into the ground and put a short piece of slightly larger diameter pipe on top of it and you’ll have roller guides.

Got Beans?

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

bean-plantInstead of planting the same old green beans, try some beans in Technicolor.  There are beans in white, red, purple, yellow and mottled pods.  Plant a variety!  Nothing looks cooler then a yellow bean plant next to a red bean plant next to a purple next to a white.  After you pick and clean them, steam them very briefly, cut them diagonally, toss them with perhaps some onions and oregano, and apply a vinaigrette dressing.  Bon Apetit!

Starting Seeds

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

packet-for-front_roMost seeds can be direct-sown into the garden when the time is right.  But many folks like to get a jump on the season by growing vegetable starts.  These are usually warm weather plants - tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, melons, cucumbers, etc.  While you can grow them in a container with drainage - i.e. a Dixie cup with a whole hole in the bottom - most folks use seed trays and cell packs.

There are two trays, one with performations in the bottom and one without - you’ll want one of each.  Cell packs are sheets of small cells that nestle snugly inside the seed trays.  You’ll want one sheet of cells for each tray you intend to plant.

Clear plastic covers are also a good idea.  You’ll need at least one, which can be rotated to other trays as the seedlings sprout.

For most seeds you don’t need starting mix - any good quality potting soil will work as well.

Put your unperforated tray on the bottom, insert the performated tray into it, followed by the cell pack.  Dump an appropriate amount of  potting soil into the center of the cell packs and spread it equally into the cells.  Use your thumb to lightly tamp down the soil in each cell.

Put two seeds in each cell, cover with additional potting soil (1/4″  for tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, 1/2 inch for melons and cucumbers) and firm the soil lightly.

Lift the perforated tray and cell pack together out of the bottom tray.  Fill that tray with an inch of warm water and float the perforated tray with the cell pack on it.  Watering from the bottom up will give you even watering and minimize seed displacement, something that can happen when you top-water.

When the cells are dark and evenly moist, put the perforated tray with the cell pack over the sink to drain, dump the excess water out of the bottom tray and then place them back in the bottom tray.  Snap on the plastic cover.

Put the assembled trays in a sunny, warm spot during the day and the warmest place possible at night.  Most warm-weather seeds germinate best from 70 to 85 degrees, going slightly cooler once they develop leaves.  If you’re growing different kinds of seeds in one flat, try to keep the estimated germination times as close as possible.

Seedling heat mats can be pricey, but are a good long-term investment, espeically for tomato and pepper starts.  Another good, warm place to put your trays at night is on top of the your refrigerator, toward the back.  Since the tray is higher in the room it will stay warmer and get additional warmth from the coils releasing heat in the back of fridge.

Once you’ve achieved 50% germination, take the plastic cover off for good.  Keep the first seed to germinate in each cell and pluck out the other.

If your seedlings are tall and pale they aren’t getting enough light.  Use a flourescent light to boost light levels and length of day (see below).

If they rot at the base - called “damping off” - they’re too wet and too cold.  Toss the contents, sterilize your fresh potting soil by putting it into a 250-degree oven for an hour and start again.

Seedlings that seem spindly can be toughened up by putting them in the path of an oscilliating table fan set on low.  The movement of the air will make them more robust, but also more likely to dry out.

Keep the cell packs evenly moist.  With the cover on, they won’t need much water.

You can use fluorescent light to start your seeds or extend the length of the growing day.  If hung by a fine chain, they can be precisely raised and kept 2″ to 4″ above your seedlings.  You don’t have to use more expensive daylight spectrum bulbs.  For most purposes a regular white bulb works just fine.  Sow your seeds 6 to 8 weeks before you intend to plant them.  which in our case will be around Memorial Day.

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