Boulder's best and largest Florists and Garden Center

>> Home
>> About Us
>> Blog
>> Map and Driving Directions
>> What's New Event Calendar
>> Join Our Mailing List


Weekdays: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Saturday: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Sunday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Avant Gardening with Sturtz & Copeland

Gardening ideas for Boulder, Colorado

Archive for November, 2009

Living Christmas Trees

Friday, November 27th, 2009

While Christmas trees are grown to be sacrificed (kind of ironic, huh?) , some of us recoil at the thought of cutting down a living tree and watching it slowly die in our living rooms.  There are alternatives.

A lovely houseplant, the Norfolk Island Pine, makes a swell Christmas tree.  It needs bright to indirect light.  Water regularly during warmer months and cut back in the cooler months.  They can reach 7 to 8 feet tall and live for years.

The Italian Stone Pine is another option.  They do quite well inside and typically have a more traditional shape than the Norfolk Pine.  They tend to be on the smaller side, but have very pretty needles.  They’re rated zone six and could survive in our climate if planted in a sunny, south-facing, protected spot.

Evergreens typically grown for outdoor use can also be used as Christmas trees, but it can be a bit tricky.  And keep in mind that a tree that’s 6 feet tall can weigh 200 pounds or more.

Since they’ve been outdoors, chances are that they’ve become somewhat dormant.  Bringing them in to a heated home can stress them to the point of no return.

You’ll want to transition them into your home slowly, getting them gradually warmer over the course of a week.  Spraying them with an antidessicant like Wilt-Pruf will help.

Plan on keeping them inside for only 3 to 4 days, then transition them back out. Plant them if the ground isn’t frozen.  If it is, try to keep the pot or burlap-wrapped root ball well watered, insulated with straw and out of strong sun or wind.

One way some of our customers keep their living trees alive is by not bringing them inside at all.  They keep their decorated tree outside, in the front of a picture window.

And others just decorate one of their larger houseplants.

Christmas Tree Tips

Friday, November 20th, 2009

douglasWhen selecting a tree, brush your hand over the needles and see how many needles fall off — if it seems like a lot, forgo that tree.

Check that the needles are green all the way down the stem right up to the trunk of the tree.  Trees lose their needles from the inside out, so if the stems are barren except at the tips, skip that tree.

Pick the tree up and try to sense if it seems heavy for its size.  Fresh trees are full of water and feel heavy.  If a tree feels light, skip it.

When you go to put a fresh cut on the bottom of the tree use a hand saw rather than a power saw.  The xylem, the cells which carry water up the trunk and keep your tree fresh, suffer less damage when hand cut.  Cut at least one inch, preferably three or more, off the bottom and immerse the base immediately in water.

The first two or three days, it’s critical to check the water levels two or three times a day.  If the water level has dropped and the base of the tree has dried out you’ll want to cut it again.  Some trees drink a lot, others very little.  As long as the tree seems flexible, things are probably okay.

Be careful about what you add to the water.  Formulations including sugar, soda pop, bleach, copper, etc. are almost all bad for your tree.  A few years ago we put evergreen sprigs in water tubes with different formulations and the only one that surpassed tap water was tap water with a trace of aspirin.  Take a gallon of warm water, and add a half-dozen crushed aspirin.  You need only do this in the initial watering.  After that use warm tap water.

Positioning the tree is important.  Sunlight, heating vents and drafts can all hasten a tree’s demise.  If it’s cold out let the tree have some transition time in your garage — a day or two is fine.  Antidessicants such as Wilt-Pruf can be sprayed on a tree to keep it fresher longer.

Keep in mind that smaller trees are easier for the growers to groom so that they tend to be more symmetrical than the big boys.

And take a good hard look at your tree stand.  If it’s one of those creaky, shaky discount stands with the three or four little screws and a shallow bowl — don’t hesitate — toss it.  Cheap stands are dangerous.  Spend a little more and get a good stand– we sell excellent ones — and save yourself from a holiday’s worth of frustration.

Winter Watering

Saturday, November 14th, 2009

ts200910_06One of the Glorious things about Front Range winters is the warm spell.  It’s not unusual to hit 60 or even 70 degrees in winter, but however much we enjoy it, it can be tough on our perennials and shrubs.

Warm weather can lure plants out of dormancy only to freeze off new growth days later.  One of the most important things you can do in winter  — especially for recently transplanted plants — is to remember to water in winter.  If it hasn’t  rained or snowed for more than two weeks and the ground has thawed, it’s a good idea to water your plants.  Give them a good drink  in the winter and you’ll have much better plants next spring.

Copyright © 2005-2010 Sturtz and Copeland   303.442.6663 | 866.680.6663
                                                                                                                                   Visit us on...